Tuesday, May 5, 2009

My first trip to the doctor :)

My program is almost done!!!! I am so excited for it to be finished because I will be staying in Morocco for a month after. It will be so nice to be here and not have to worry about school. So what have I been up to? Well I have finally been able to complete some interviews for my project and they have all been amazing. My project is on refugees and thanks to a friend of the director of my program I have been able to make some connections with the refugee community here. I have been working with refugees since high school and the stories I have heard…well they are amazing and heart breaking. In the immigrant community here they form groups by country and this past weekend a few people from my group and I were able to meet with the community leaders of Cameroon, Nigeria, Ivory Coast and Guinea. We did our interviews and then just sat and talked for a few more hours, true to African culture, time is irrelevant. We were then invited to come back next week to have a dinner. They are going to prepare typical dishes from their country. I can’t wait!!! It was great sitting and talking with them. They asked us so many questions about America. I’m always so interested in their stories because they have lived through incredible things, but I often forget that they have many questions for me too. One of them wanted to know how the American school system worked, he thought we had were able to go to college for free….haha. They told us that they heard someone say there were beggars in New York and they wanted us to confirm this. We did and then explained that not only are they in New York but all over the country. They never saw beggars in American movies and thought they did not exist in America. I feel like when I tell people here the truth about America they are often disappointed. They build it up to be this perfect place and then I have to tell them we have beggars too and no not all black people in America live like 50 cent (that one made us laugh). To most people here America is what they see in movies and music videos…. It’s a sad image we are giving off let me tell you. The other day on MTV Arabia (which is what Samantha’s host mom always puts it on when I come over…she has no idea I hate MTV) there was this show on where some American college students were here in Morocco in the city of Fes. It was pretty embarrassing and we had to explain to Sam’s host mom that most Americans aren’t like them and “reality” tv isn’t really reality. Oh American media *sigh*.
A few days ago I ate something bad (I think) and got really really sick. Mom you might not like this story just to warn you :o)…. Ok so being sick was awful but I’m kinda glad I got the whole Moroccan doctor experience. So I woke up and basically couldn’t stop throwing up, so I called my friend who told her host mom (which is basically like my mom here). By the time I called my friend and her host mom came to my house to get me I was so tired and pretty out of it. In my dazed state I clung onto her arm and she dragged me through the medina. My goal was to get through the market without throwing up. I’m not sure you really know what I mean when I say medina. The market is about three feet of road filled with tons of people, bikes, motorcycle, cats, people on either side selling food, cow’s heads and other raw meat hanging on meat hooks inches from your head…it’s not a pretty place. So I made it out of the medina with out passing out or throwing up. Then the hunt began for a doctor. How it goes here is you walk around and read the signs on the building looking for the right doctor. Oh and every doctor’s office is on like the sixth floor of whatever building it is in with no elevator! I’m dragged up six flights of stairs, she asks for directions, wrong building. Next building, six more flights of stairs, doctor is gone, back down the stairs. After about two or three more attempts at finding a doctor I was so tired I had to sit at the bottom of the stair well while she ran up and down looking for a doctor. She ran up and down stairs while I sat at the entrance to random building puking into the plastic bag she thankfully brought….sometimes I’m very pitiful. Finally we found one so I made the hike up the six flights of stairs. I sat and waited for the doctor, puked some more and gave my name, age and nationality. The next hour or two are kind of blurry but I saw the doctor, he examined me, asked me some questions and subscribed me something (oh and I think I failed to mention all this is going on in Arabic and French, neither of which I am fluent in or familiar with medical terms). I remember the doctor was old and looked very kind, but I could not tell you his name or where his office is. So after another brief episode of vomiting (sry this is probably grossing some of you out) I am dragged down the million stairs and down the street to find a pharmacy, which is thankfully nearby. We picked up the medicine then got in a taxi. More throwing up in the taxi….ok I’ll stop telling you when I puked…and then I’m not sure what you would call the next place I went to, a clinic maybe? It was basically a woman sitting in an empty room behind a desk. Miriam (Sam’s host mom) handed her one of the medicines we got at the pharmacy and to my delight I saw her unwrap it and empty its contents into a syringe…next thing I know they are pulling down my pants and giving me a shot (sorry these aren’t very lady-like details but it’s the truth!). I sit and they let me rest for a minute, then it’s back out the door and back into a taxi. We arrive back to the medina, more dragging me through the medina to Sam’s house, where Miriam puts me to bed and I sleep all afternoon. Soooo I am fine now humdullah (thanks be to God) and it is funny to look back on, but at the time I just wanted to die. Sam’s host mom saved my life, she was so kind to take such good care of me, she even made me soup. So that is my fun story for now! Keep praying for my health because it is not fun to get sick here and I hope that is my first and last time! Now I am just worried about getting my project done and doing a good job on it. I met with someone from the UN this morning to interview them and they want a copy of my research findings when I’m done….I’ll see what quality of a paper I produce then decide. I hope everyone is doing well and staying away from the swine flu!

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Church, marriage, Fes, moving

I am sorry I haven’t been blogging this month! It’s not because I am so busy, I have just neglected my blog. Today I read my sister’s and was reminded how fun it is to be able to read about people’s experiences so I’ll try to be good and blog a little more.

I finally went to the church here which was an interesting experience….well weird is really the right word. It was great but weird b/c the service was so American and I was expecting it to be more, I dunno, African? Anyways I’ll be going back so maybe I’ll have more to write on it later. There were no Moroccans in the church because it would be illegal for them to be there. It was all Europeans, Americans and Sub-Saharan Africans. It was strange sitting in church and hearing the call to prayer from the mosques outside and yet there is something so right about that. There are very few places in the world where a mosque and a church can sit so peacefully beside each other. That is how Morocco is, a place full of so many contradictions and yet delicately balanced in a peaceful position. I must say that the king of Morocco does an incredible job of keeping peace in a place that faces so much pressure from every direction. He has the Islamic/Arab world on his back constantly pressuring him to be a good Islamic country and from the other side the Western worlds of America and Europe who have been good allies (well America at least).

Two of my friends that I met at the cyber by house got married last weekend! I didn’t go sadly because I was in a different city, but I got to see lots of pictures. It was a two day event and weddings here last a very long time with a ton of music and food involved. The wedding on Saturday was a wedding thrown by the groom’s family and it was in a different part of town while the one on Sunday was thrown by the bride’s family and was here in the medina. The wedding started at 6pm and went until 3am! The bride changes dresses several time, my friend had 6 different dresses (or kaftans rather) and they were all different colors. I saw pictures of her in a red one a white one and a green one; they were all beautiful!

So I went to the city of Fes which was so so cool. I think I would like it better than Rabat if it was on the coast and if I knew people there. It is so quintessential Moroccan. The medina is the largest in Morocco with somewhere around 9,000 different streets/alleys, which we thought would be a problem but after living here for so long we seemed to get a lot more lost when we were outside of the medina than in it. Our friend’s told us to go to this awesome scarf shop that they loved and where they know the guys that work there. With their vague instructions which went something like “when you see a tricked out door on your right take the creepy alley way on the left…”(you get the idea) we managed to find it. Just goes to show how use to the layouts of the cities we are. Fes was a great city but I always love coming back to Rabat, which has become home.

We are on our independent study time right now which has been rather stressful and I’m nervous I’m not going to get all the information or interviews that I need. Plus I’m one of those people that needs pressure on me to get work done so 4 weeks with no schedule, well let’s just say I don’t know where those first 3 weeks went! Thankfully I have an incredible advisor for my paper and sometimes it helps to be an American abroad because the people at the UN think I’m more important than I really am. Today I got a call on my cell phone from the project director at the UNHCR trying to set me up with an interview for next week. So I’m pretty sure my project will get done .

It has been great getting to know locals my own age more. Through my traveling if I’ve learned anything at all it’s that it doesn’t matter where you are but rather who you are with. Like an old Moroccan saying goes, “choose your travel companion before you chose your road”, or something along those lines. I’ve had some great conversations with my neighbor who is 23 and speaks almost perfect English. Sometimes we talk about his future, which he is very pessimistic about. It is sad because he has no hope for his future. He is graduating from college soon and is searching for an internship preferably outside of Morocco. He is looking into places like India and China. If anyone knows of a marketing internship in the states he could have let me know! He doesn’t believe he will be able to find a job and he has given up hoping and dreaming for things. He told me he doesn’t like to hope for things because they never happen. At home I think if someone said this people might respond with something like “oh just work really hard and you will be able to get a good job”. Here it doesn’t really matter how hard you work it is very rare that people work themselves out of poverty. It is all about who you know and how much money you have.

My program is ending in 2 weeks but I am staying until the end of June insha’allah (God willing). I can’t imagine going home in 2 weeks! I am not ready! It will be nice to be here and not have the pressure of school. I have one more week living with my host family who has been so great to me and been such a blessing to have. I will be moving out of the medina and into an apartment in the Kasbah with another friend who is staying all summer. The kasbah is just across a big street from the medina, overlooks the ocean and is a lot prettier and cleaner than the medina. The only down side is that there aren’t markets in the Kasbah it is all residential with a few shops along the main street. It will be a beautiful place to live and less hectic than the medina. I could probably stay with my family here in the medina if I wanted but it will be nice to have the freedom to come and go as I please and eat what I want when I want… that kind of thing. Also I will probably be spending my time tutoring a child in English 3 time a week, going to the beach (if it ever gets warm! It is warmer in Boston than here now!) and maybe traveling a little.

I leave for Turkey in two weeks and please keep it in your prayers since there was just a terrorist attack there in the city of Ankara. I’m meeting Brishon, Alizabeth, Mark (who currently are all in Nepal), Barrett, Barry and Patty all in Izmir. Hopefully I will meet up with Barrett and Barry in Istanbul and then we have the same flight to Izmir. Ok well I will try to blog more a little later b/c I have a lot more to say but this is long enough :o). Baslaama!

Monday, March 30, 2009

Crossing Borders

I went to Spain!!! Last week I was in Northern Morocco and then Spain for 3 days. It felt so good and so refreshing to be in a European country. I can’t even explain in words how refreshing it was. It was nice to walk down the street and not be stared at, followed or harassed. There was a normal ratio of men to women on the streets. When I walked into a café it wasn’t a room full of men staring at me, men and women alike were inside and didn’t even notice me walk in. I was able to go out after dark, something I haven’t really done for 2 months! It was just nice to experience some normality for the first time in 2 months. We stayed in the city of Malaga which was gorgeous! The Spanish architecture with slight Moroccan influence was beautiful. The hardest part of the trip was changing my dirham into euros….that was painful.
Let me start at the beginning of the trip. First we went to Chefchaouen (I think I spelled that wrong) which is in Northern Morocco. The landscape reminded me a little of Colorado. It is an adorable mountain town and if you are ever in Morocco you have to go there. We also stopped at an incredible Moroccan villa for lunch on our way to the border town of Fnideq. It is a villa owned by two of the professors that work at my school and it was absolutely stunning. It was in a random town that really has no significance other than the olives that grow there and the whole area operates off of drug money. The one thing that ruined the Northern cities for me was all the drugs. In Chefchaouen there was weed everywhere! Like shopkeepers would just sit in their shops all day smoking pot. On the bright side this made everyone very chill and shop keepers wouldn’t hassle us! But Chefchaouen was like a druggy’s utopia. Ok now I need to tell you about the strangest town I have ever been in in my entire life (and I’ve been to a lot of towns), the eerie town of Fnideq. It is a town on the border of Morocco and the Spanish enclave of Ceuta. It is hard to put into words and honestly you just have to experience it to understand the weirdness of it. The town runs entirely off of contraband goods. People smuggle things over from Spain and then sell them in this town. We were only there for one night thankfully but it was like living one night in the twilight zone. I’ll try to paint the picture for you. It looks like it used to be a normal functioning town with a main road lined with shops only all the shops are abandoned. One girl in our group described it as an anti-utopian world. There are no cars in the streets, instead the sidewalks and street are covered with men who spread out one or two tables or blankets covered with things to sell. It didn’t seem like a lot of people were buying things but there were tons of people standing around trying to sell things. There was barely any room to walk around because the ground is covered with everything ranging from food, pots, blankets, underwear, sunglasses, etc and men the men who sell the stuff all stand around talking to each other. Then we saw what looked like an abandoned mall and we gave it the fitting name “Contraband Mall”. It was a giant concrete structure like a mall in America without all the fancy signs. We went inside and it was basically just that, an abandoned mall. Again people had things spread out inside and filled the shelves of the stores with random goods. We didn’t venture to the second floor because it looked creepy and we were creeped out enough as it was. None of the stuff being sold was aimed towards tourist and come to think of it I didn’t see any other foreigners there other than our group. I don’t think outsiders go there very often. There were almost no women on the streets and the only ones we saw were wearing djellabas and hijabs (the traditional Moroccan robes and head scarf). So after roaming the streets with my eyes the size of saucers for about an hour and seeing the best contraband Fnideq had to offer, we bought the essentials (which in this case were two boxes of Oreos!) and retreated to our hotel room to be comforted by Oprah. I wish I had a picture to show you but since the entire town is covered in illegal sales none of us wanted to find out how the locals would respond to us taking out our cameras.
After surviving a night in Fnideq we headed for our next challenge; crossing the border! Originally our bus was supposed to drop us at the border; we would walk across and then be picked up by another bus on the other side. Thankfully when our bus dropped us off the other bus was there on the Morocco side waiting to drive us over the border. Let me give you the scene so you can see why I was so thankful we were able to drive over the border instead of walk. When we arrived at 7 am at the border there was already a line about half a mile long, not single file but about 5 men wide waiting to cross. Next to the line of men there was a line for women. The line for women is not even a line it is women showing their papers and walking through. The reason for this is b/c there are a lot more men going in I believe, but also women are not searched at the border due to the social gender codes. The male guards cannot search a woman so they are able to walk through, while a man can be searched by the male guards so it takes a lot longer to get through. Until about 50 meters before the actual border there isn’t any sort of boundary between the men and women line except for guards every 8 feet and these guards do not hesitate to get violent. Whenever the men step out of line or if the line just seems too big they push the men back or beat them with a big leather strap. I’m not sure if we would have walked by this line but 15 American girls just waltzing through the border seems a little bit like we are laughing in their faces or something. It just seems wrong. So I am glad we got to hide in the bus while all the passports were being stamped and then drive across the border. They never even came on the bus to make sure it was only us on board. We could have been full of Moroccans and I’m not sure they would have known. Crossing the border on the way back was the same except there was no long line of Moroccan men and a guard boarded our bus and drove over the border with us. When he stepped on our bus we all went silent haha. I don’t know why we were so intimidated but none of us said one word as he went around checking our passports. It was a great trip!
I have two weeks left of classes and then we start our independent research projects, which is for 4 weeks. After the program I am heading to Turkey! Me, Brishon, Alizabeth, Mark and hopefully Barrett and some friends from Hawaii, Barry and Patty will all be renting a villa in Istanbul for a week. I am so excited and can’t wait to see my siblings! Oh and this week a friend was visiting the woman I live with and she grew up where Alizabeth and Mark live in India! So we spent an afternoon drinking tea in a café and she told me all about where they live. It was great to hear about where they live from someone who lived there, but made me miss Alizabeth more than I already do. That is what I love about traveling; all of the people God puts in your path! I think about my friends and family at home a lot and miss you all very much. If anyone wants to visit please do! I love writing these blogs because when I stop and reflect on what I’ve done and the experiences I’ve had it makes me all the more excited for the experiences to come! Thanks for all the prayers and know you are in my prayers too! Much love from North Africa!